Dishwasher Makes a Grinding Noise While Running
A grinding sound almost always means something hard is caught in the chopper blade or pump area — a bone fragment, glass shard, or fruit pit are common culprits.
Short answer: A buzzing sound that continues while the machine still washes and drains normally is usually electrical or vibration-related rather than a jam — most often the drain valve solenoid engaging, a loose panel or bracket vibrating, or the motor working slightly harder than normal. If the machine also fails to wash or drain properly, treat it as a more significant fault rather than just noise.
Because the machine keeps working normally, this is generally a lower-urgency symptom than grinding — but it's still worth a quick check to rule out an easy cause like a loose panel or something rattling in the load.
| What you notice | Most likely cause |
|---|---|
| Buzz only during the drain stage | Drain valve solenoid (often normal) |
| Buzz throughout the whole cycle | Loose panel or bracket |
| Wash and drain performance still normal | Lower-urgency, likely vibration-related |
| Cleaning or draining also getting worse | Treat as a developing fault, not just noise |
1. Drain valve solenoid engaging
Some machines use an electrically operated valve to control draining, which can produce a brief buzzing sound as it engages — often completely normal if brief and tied to the drain stage specifically.
2. Loose panel or bracket vibrating
An access panel, the kickplate, or an internal bracket that's slightly loose can buzz or rattle in sympathy with normal motor vibration, without indicating any fault with the wash system itself.
3. Motor working slightly harder than normal
A motor nearing the point of needing service can sometimes produce a more noticeable hum or buzz under load, even while still completing its job for now.
4. A loose or vibrating utensil or item in the load
It's worth ruling out first — a lightweight item vibrating against the rack or tub wall can sound surprisingly like an internal electrical buzz.
Check the load for a vibrating item
Open the machine partway through (if safe to pause) or after the cycle and check whether anything in the racks could be the source.
Note the timing within the cycle
A buzz specifically during drain is more likely the drain valve; a buzz throughout is more likely a panel or motor-related sound.
Tighten accessible panels
With the machine unplugged, check and gently tighten the kickplate and any accessible access panels that might be loose.
Monitor wash and drain performance
If cleaning and draining remain normal, this is likely a lower-priority noise issue; if either starts to suffer, treat it as a developing fault worth addressing sooner.
Safety warning
Do not attempt to access, test, or repair the motor or drain valve solenoid's electrical components yourself. If the sound is accompanied by any burning smell, unplug the dishwasher immediately and contact a qualified technician.It can be, on machines that use an electrically operated drain valve — a brief, consistent buzz specifically tied to the drain stage, with normal draining otherwise, is often just that valve operating as designed.
Grinding has a mechanical, crunching quality and usually means something is physically caught and being struck. Buzzing is smoother and more electrical or vibration-like. See our grinding noise guide if that description fits better.
Not urgently, but it's worth keeping an eye on — a persistent new noise that develops over time is often an early sign worth monitoring even when performance hasn't suffered yet.
Home Solutions Editorial Team
Reviewed against manufacturer documentation. Updated August 15, 2026. How we write guides
A grinding sound almost always means something hard is caught in the chopper blade or pump area — a bone fragment, glass shard, or fruit pit are common culprits.
A hum right where wash should start means the wash pump motor is powered and trying to run — the water just can't get moving, usually from a jammed impeller.
If the display and buttons work but no water ever enters, the water supply valve behind the machine, a stuck float switch, or the inlet valve itself is almost always the cause.
When only the top rack comes out dirty, the upper spray arm usually isn't getting enough water pressure or is physically blocked — the lower rack working fine rules out the pump itself.