Washer Fills But Will Not Spin: Causes and Fixes
A washer that fills with water but won't spin usually has an unbalanced load, a lid/door switch fault, or a worn drive belt or motor coupling.
Short answer: F5 E3 means the washer's door lock mechanism failed to confirm a secure lock. It's most often an obstruction in the door strike, a worn latch, or debris buildup preventing a full seal — all checkable without a technician.
1. Obstruction in the door strike area
A stray sock, small item, or detergent residue buildup in the door strike can prevent the latch from fully seating, so the lock switch never confirms a secure close.
2. Worn or misaligned door latch
Repeated use over years can wear the latch mechanism so it no longer reliably engages the lock switch.
3. Detergent or fabric softener buildup on the door seal
Residue on the rubber door gasket can prevent it from compressing fully, which in turn can prevent the latch from seating correctly.
4. Failed door lock switch or motor
The motorized lock assembly itself can fail electrically after years of use, which typically needs professional replacement.
Clean the door strike and gasket
Wipe down the strike area and the full rubber door seal to remove detergent residue or debris that could be preventing a full seal.
Power-cycle the washer
Unplug it (or switch off the breaker) for a full 60 seconds, then restore power and try starting a cycle again.
Test the latch
Close the door several times, listening and feeling for a firm, consistent click each time rather than an inconsistent or soft catch.
Check door alignment
If the error persists, examine whether the door sits flush all the way around its frame rather than gapped on one side, which can indicate a hinge issue.
Safety warning
The door lock is a safety interlock, not just a convenience feature. Never attempt to defeat, tape over, or manually trigger the lock switch to force a cycle to start.It's the same general category — a door/lid lock fault — though the exact code format varies by brand and model generation (Whirlpool-family brands, which include Maytag, often use similar code structures).
No — the door lock is a safety feature that prevents the drum from spinning with the door open, so the machine won't proceed with a cycle without it.
Yes — buildup on the gasket or in the strike area is one of the most common and easiest-to-fix causes, since it physically prevents the door from seating fully even when it looks closed.
Home Solutions Editorial Team
Reviewed against manufacturer documentation. Updated August 6, 2026. How we write guides
A washer that fills with water but won't spin usually has an unbalanced load, a lid/door switch fault, or a worn drive belt or motor coupling.
The Whirlpool F5 code points to a door/lid lock fault — the machine can't confirm the door is securely locked before or during a cycle.
A Maytag dryer that tumbles but produces no heat almost always has a blown thermal fuse, usually caused by a clogged exhaust vent restricting airflow.
The Bosch E18 code indicates the washer can't drain within its expected time — a clogged pump filter is the most common and easiest-to-fix cause.
We use cookies to run this site (necessary), understand how it's used (analytics), and show relevant ads (advertising). Choose what you're comfortable with — necessary cookies are always on. See our Cookie Policy.